Monday, July 21, 2014

OD Time!!

This is a build report for  a Madbeans Egghead overdrive. Once again a build I did for my dad. This is a simple Overdrive circuit. The pedal is great but not my cup of tea. My dad needed an OD for his Fender amp so this will fill that need. I used a 3pdt board from guitarpcb with a bi-color LED. Fun and quick to build. Here are some pictures and I will post a video after I record it.

Top View

Top view (on)


Thanks for reading.

Vero(RE)bote 2.5 Build Report

Vero(re)bote 2.5
     Hello all. this is a build report for the Vero version of the Rebote 2.5 analog style delay by Tonepad. I originally started this for a friend but he decided he didn't need it. So, instead I am gonna give it to my dad. The layout was done by sabrotone and was very easy to follow and complete. The delay it self is very filtered and "clean" sounding. The controls are your simple delay controls: Delay; Level; Repeats, There is also a switch that allows you to get a bit more delay out of the pedal. The switch simply switches between two different resistors allowing for "long" or "short" delays.
     The finish on the pedal is inspired by Rej over at GrindcustomFX. He posts quite a bit of "worn" finsh pedals and I personally love the look. So I tried it. Here is the finishing process:
-Sand (500 grit) enclosure and clean after finished
-Rattle can paint and let dry for 2 or more days.
-Wet sand (1200 grit) until wear spots appear
-Clear coat optional
Here is the pedal. I will post a video demo when I get the chance to take one.

Top View

Artsy Top


Junk in the Trunk!

Feel free to comment and ask questions. Video to follow! Thanks!

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Keep it going...

Hey Everyone,
     Over the past weekend i was able to complete and test a couple of circuits. I finished an Overdrive PCB that I got from Madbeans a while ago (EggHead overdrive). I also finished a Vero layout of the Rebote 2.5 by tonepad. The Rebote 2.5 is a delay pedal and this proved to be a bit of a challenge at first. But, needless to say, I prevailed! I have made the decision to donate these to my dad. He mentioned he needed these. I have also made the decision to re-box a pedal I did a while ago. This was a Fuzz Factory clone that I called the Frizzle Frazzle. It was in a HUGE enclosure and I wanted it smaller. So I drilled a smaller (1590B) and started re-boxing it. In the process I decided to paint it along with the other enclosures I had to do so, I un-boxed it again and refinished the enclosure. Now I am in the process of boxing all of these up. The Fuzz Factory (which I plan on finishing tonight) will be renamed to the PeptoPhuzz. The other two will be going to my dad so the names aren't that important. I will post pictures and maybe a couple of videos soon. I think I'll do a build report for each pedal. Thanks for reading!

Mike Flanagan
Custohm Electronics

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Tried My Hand AT Etching

    Hello everyone, So, a few weeks ago I decided to try and etch a few PCB layouts for future builds. There were a few builds that I knew I wanted to do and one of which the PCB was no longer available. So I decided to try and make my own. Here is the process I used.

Etching Process
  1. Print layout(s) on VERY glossy printer paper using a laser printer. I used staples presentation paper and an ancient HP laser printer.
  2. Align the layouts(s) on the copper clad (face down on copper side) so there is enough of a border around the PCB s so you have room to cut with a Dremmel or score and snap.
  3. Get the iron out!!! Heat up the Iron on the hottest setting with out any water in it. Then place the Iron on the copper clad/paper combo. Leave the iron on there for at least 10 min. After the 10 min take the Iron and start rubbing it on the paper so the toner ad-hears to the copper. DO THIS IN ALL DIRECTIONS!! That way the traces are good and none come off in the next step. (Touch up with Sharpie if needed)
  4. Soak in soapy warm water for like 15 min, or until the paper starts to fall apart. then use you thumb and rub off the rest of the paper leaving just the toner on the copper clad. Make sure all the paper is off!
  5. Time to etch!. Warm the Ferric Chloride up (while in the bottle) by running it under warm tap water. Pour the Ferric Chloride in to a PLASTIC <- very important) container, about an inch deep or so, and place you board in it copper side up. 
  6. Agitate the etch-ant by gently sloshing back and forth over the board. Continue this for about 10-15 min. You will see the copper start to dissolve. Once all the copper, around the toner, is gone take the board out of the etch-ant and put in a seperate PLASTIC container with cool soapy water. 
  7. Remove the board and dry with a paper towel. Then use the scratchy part of the sponge (scotch brite) and lightly rub over the toner. Make sure you get all the Toner off the board! Then clean with some acetone and you are DONE!!! The whole process takes about 15-30 min. 
Below are the boards that I did a few weeks ago. I will do a picture tutorial when I get some more Copper Clad.

The four across the top are 3PDT daughter boards. They make it much easier and cleaner looking when wiring the pedal up. The two large ones on the bottom are Hamlet delay PCB s. 

More 3PDT daughter boards on plain copper clad.

Here are the boards cut apart and drilled. The two on the left are the 3PDT boards top right is a Rebote 2.5 (tonepad layout) and the bottom right is the Hamlet delay board.
Feel free to ask questions and comment. Always willing to lend a hand if I can. Thanks guys!!

PS. Layout links (clickable) Rebote 2.5 , Hamlet