Hello everyone, So, a few weeks ago I decided to try and etch a few PCB layouts for future builds. There were a few builds that I knew I wanted to do and one of which the PCB was no longer available. So I decided to try and make my own. Here is the process I used.
Etching Process
- Print layout(s) on VERY glossy printer paper using a laser printer. I used staples presentation paper and an ancient HP laser printer.
- Align the layouts(s) on the copper clad (face down on copper side) so there is enough of a border around the PCB s so you have room to cut with a Dremmel or score and snap.
- Get the iron out!!! Heat up the Iron on the hottest setting with out any water in it. Then place the Iron on the copper clad/paper combo. Leave the iron on there for at least 10 min. After the 10 min take the Iron and start rubbing it on the paper so the toner ad-hears to the copper. DO THIS IN ALL DIRECTIONS!! That way the traces are good and none come off in the next step. (Touch up with Sharpie if needed)
- Soak in soapy warm water for like 15 min, or until the paper starts to fall apart. then use you thumb and rub off the rest of the paper leaving just the toner on the copper clad. Make sure all the paper is off!
- Time to etch!. Warm the Ferric Chloride up (while in the bottle) by running it under warm tap water. Pour the Ferric Chloride in to a PLASTIC <- very important) container, about an inch deep or so, and place you board in it copper side up.
- Agitate the etch-ant by gently sloshing back and forth over the board. Continue this for about 10-15 min. You will see the copper start to dissolve. Once all the copper, around the toner, is gone take the board out of the etch-ant and put in a seperate PLASTIC container with cool soapy water.
- Remove the board and dry with a paper towel. Then use the scratchy part of the sponge (scotch brite) and lightly rub over the toner. Make sure you get all the Toner off the board! Then clean with some acetone and you are DONE!!! The whole process takes about 15-30 min.
The four across the top are 3PDT daughter boards. They make it much easier and cleaner looking when wiring the pedal up. The two large ones on the bottom are Hamlet delay PCB s.
More 3PDT daughter boards on plain copper clad.
Here are the boards cut apart and drilled. The two on the left are the 3PDT boards top right is a Rebote 2.5 (tonepad layout) and the bottom right is the Hamlet delay board.
Feel free to ask questions and comment. Always willing to lend a hand if I can. Thanks guys!!-Mike-
PS. Layout links (clickable) Rebote 2.5 , Hamlet
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